California Proposes a Ban on Anti-Aging Skin Care for Kids

On Tuesday, February 18, a California state legislator introduced a bill that could shake up the skin-care industry as we know it. The bill would ban the sale of over-the-counter anti-aging products to anyone under 18. If passed, it would prevent access to products containing vitamin A and its derivatives, including retinoids and retinol, as well as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and citric acid.

The proposal comes as retailers like Sephora and Ulta are experiencing a pre-teen skin-care boom, a trend that’s sparked widespread debate. Some experts have voiced concerns about children using potent active ingredients on their developing skin. Among them, Washington, D.C. dermatologist Tina Alster, MD, who weighed in on the trend in an interview with NewBeauty. “It’s never too early to begin good skin care, but beyond a good cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen, there is little need for 10-year-olds to invest in a plethora of skin-care products,” she said.

Which raises the question—should kids have access to anti-aging products in the first place? “These are products that can be great for a different age range,” New York City dermatologist Toral Vaidya, MD, told The New York Times in an interview about the bill. “But for younger kids, they actually can wreak havoc on their skin.” She added that using potent actives too soon can lead to unwanted side effects like “redness, itching and irritation.”

If the bill becomes law, California retailers would need to verify a buyer is 18 or older before selling them anti-aging skin-care products. While some experts believe young skin doesn’t need potent actives, others argue that education, not restriction, is the answer. Whether this bill passes or not, one thing is clear: the conversation about how young is too young for anti-aging skin care isn’t slowing down anytime soon.