Discover the beauty and charm of Matsushima, a picturesque coastal town in Tohoku Japan. From stunning views to its rich history, this travel guide will help you plan your perfect trip to Matsushima.
Matsushima is a small coastal town in the Tohoku region, just 40 minutes from Sendai City. The bay area is covered by 260 pine-covered islands that create one of the “Three Views of Japan” (the other two are Amano-Hashidate in Kyoto and Miyajima in Hiroshima). This town has long been celebrated as a place of romance, spirituality, and elegance, drawing in many monks, rulers, and artists.
Even the haiku master Matsuo Basho was left at a loss for words when he first visited Matsushima. Its scenic beauty and fantastic food now attract visitors from all over the world, making it a must-visit if you are in the Tohoku region.
During my visit, I embarked on a cruise through the majestic islands while indulging in local delicacies, from fresh oysters to some of the best soft creams I’ve had in Japan. Visiting in early February meant that some spots were closed, but there’s still plenty to do. Ready to take a tour now? Let’s go!
How to get to Matsushima
Matsushima is easily accessible by both car and train. From Sendai Station, it takes approximately 35 minutes by car using the expressways, with tolls costing 440 yen one way.
By train, board the Tohoku Line to directly to Matsushima Station, costing 420 yen one way and taking approximately 25 minutes. Alternatively, take the JR Senseki Line to Matsushima Kaigan Station, which costs 420 yen one way and takes approximately 40 minutes (prices in 2024). This station is just at the entrance of the town, so it is a great starting point to explore the city, whereas Matsushima Station is more centrally located.
Matsushima Bay
Upon arriving at Matsushima, you’ll be greeted by the open bay, where you can view the mysterious islands, Godaido Temple, and Fukuurabashi Bridge leading to Fukuurajima.
The best way to explore the area is to go on a sightseeing cruise. There are a variety of courses to choose from, with tickets available to purchase at the pier on the day. Adults cost 1,500 yen, children (aged 6-12) cost 750 yen, and infants (under six years old) can board for free (prices in 2024). The cruise lasts approximately 50 minutes, covering 17 km while touring through the mysterious pine-clad islets.
On the boat, there are three levels. The bottom two have indoor seating and outdoor viewing spots, while the top floor is outdoors. Inside, many people were eating their bento lunch while enjoying the beautiful scenery!
During the cruise, a local woman described the area and all the islands and how they were naturally formed by the crashing waves.
She also described how Matsushima and her personal life were affected by the 2011 Tohoku tsunami. Luckily, all the islands in front of Tsushima helped protect the town, minimalizing any severe damage.
There are so many photo opportunities throughout the cruise. The first was Nioh-jima, which resembles a Nio guardian smoking a cigar!
The second was Kanejima, an island with four holes through it. If you take the photo at the right time, you can see directly through all the holes simultaneously. I only managed three!
You can also see the oyster cages and fishing spots that source some of Japan’s finest seafood.
Just before the cruise ended, the announcer went around the boat offering local Matsuhima goods. I picked up some oyster takikomi gohan (Japanese mixed rice)!
Local Matsushima Delicacies
Shunkai Restaurant – Oysters and Fresh Seafood
If there is one thing you should visit Matsushima for, aside from the stunning scenery, it is the seafood, specifically the oysters.
Oyster farming in Matushima started in the 1600s when a large number of oysters were discovered along the cove of Nonojima Island. Matsushima is located along the Sanriku Coast, one of the top areas for fishing. In the Sanriku Sea, where the Oyashio and Kuroshio currents converge, plentiful supplies of plankton are created, attracting migratory fish throughout the year. The calm waters also provide ideal conditions for wakame and kombu farming, as well as for scallops and oysters. Miyagi Prefecture ranks as the second-largest oyster producer (after Hiroshima), with Matsushima being one of the main contributors.
Now, you can find oysters and oyster-flavored foods and souvenirs around Matsushima.
I headed to Shunkai to taste some of the famed oysters. I decided on the oyster lunch set, cooked in different ways: raw, pickled, and deep-fried for 2300 yen. It came with soup, rice, and tsukemono (Japanese pickles).
The oysters were creamy, sweet, and had a hint of the sea. As they were cooked in three different ways, you never get tired of eating them!
Yukitakeya – Rice Crackers and Soft Cream
Along the street opposite Matsushima Bay, you can find many souvenir shops offering local Matsushima foods and goods. Here, they sell all kinds of traditional Japanese-style goods, from chopstick holders to giant rice crackers!
When you first walk in, you’ll notice the counter filled with giant round rice crackers dipped in their special sauce to order.
It was sweet, salty, sticky, and crispy all at the same time. It was pretty difficult to finish by myself!
But the soft cream really impressed me. If you’ve read some of my other travel posts, you’ll know I love soft serve. The one at Yukitakeys was red bean-flavored, and it was so creamy and rich, with the perfect amount of sweetness and undertones of red bean. It was by far one of the best soft creams I have ever had in Japan.
Matsukama Sohonten – Sasa Kamaboko
One of Miyagi Prefecture’s local foods is sasa kamaboko (笹かまぼこ), or bamboo leaf fish cake. During the early Meiji Era (1868-1912), there was an excess supply of flounder. However, due to insufficient storage facilities and transportation, much of it went to waste. In response to this, people began grinding the flounder meat into a fish cake, which came to be known as sasa kamaboko
At Matsukama Sohonten, you can grill your own sasa kamaboko and enjoy its slightly sweet and not overpoweringly fishy flavor. It’s a great snack to keep you going on your Matsushima adventures!
Historical Significance
Matsushima is not just about food and scenic views; it also holds historical significance in Japan. Date Masamune, one of Japan’s most powerful feudal lords, constructed various structures in the area, including Zuiganji, Godaido, Entsuin, Tenrinin, and the Kanrantei Tea House.
Interestingly, Zuiganji and the Kanrantei Tea House were built facing the harvest full moon in the fall, reflecting Date’s fondness for the moon (his helmet even features a crescent-shaped moon!). For those intrigued by Date’s history, the Date Masamune Historical Museum offers an opportunity to explore further and even try on a replica of his armor.
Zuiganji
I visited Zuiganji, a zen temple dating back to the ninth century. Date ordered the construction of the current temple, which served as his family’s temple, which was completed in 1609. There is a 200-meter odd walkway to the temple’s entrance, lined by towering cedar trees and shallow caves.
The hondo (main hall) is a national treasure and artistically depicts Japan’s seasonality and Date’s aesthetic sense. (Unfortunately, photos and videos are prohibited.)
Intricate paintings on gold leaf-covered walls elegantly depict the seasons. Throughout the temple, there are also wooden carvings of mythical animals.
In the museum, you can find exhibits of treasures, including original samurai swords and a statue of Masamune.
Panoramic Views
To view Matsushima Bay and the beautiful islands, you can visit one of the many observation points from different perspectives. I headed to Saigyo Modoshi no Matsu Park as there was a cafe I also wanted to visit, Cafe le Roman.
The park is named after Saigyo Hoshi, a famous poet who, after a long journey, arrived at a hill where he rested under a great pine tree. A young boy joined him and started questioning him with Buddhist riddles, which Hoshi could not answer. Ashamed, he gave up on his journey.
The park offers some of the best views of Matsushima Bay, adorned with 260 cherry blossom trees that paint the bay in a cloud of pink. From here, you can witness the dynamism of the bay and admire the small pine-covered islands, the red bridge, and the bustling fishing operations below.
Within the park, I visited Cafe le Roman, a stylish café with glass walls that allow you to soak in the panoramic views while enjoying a light meal. I had an apple tarte tatin with a spiced hot chocolate before returning to Sendai!
If you plan to stay until the evening, the night view is also stunning. Under the twinkling moonlight, you can enjoy the serenity of Matsushima as the islands and trees cast shadows against the night sky.
If you ever find yourself in the Tohoku region, Matsushima is certainly worth a visit!
Interested in food from Sendai? Don’t miss my Sendai Food Guide and other Japan travel posts.
