The Case for Separating Your Eggs Before You Fry Them

Full disclosure: I’m a relatively new egg convert. The only eggs I love are fried. I won’t touch a scramble, I don’t enjoy frittatas, and I have only occasionally been enticed by poached or jammy soft-boiled eggs. Dining out, I’ve only had the perfect fried egg a handful of times: whites with crispy, golden brown edges and a runny yolk nestled in the center. I consider myself lucky if I order an egg sunny-side up and it actually arrives at the table with fully set whites. And if the professionals are struggling to do it, well…maybe it’s the method that’s the problem. 

Before you come at me, I’ve tried Kenji’s recipe for crispy fried eggs and have gotten great results. Still, his method requires the whites and yolk to cook together, and if you aren’t careful, the egg is over before you know it. And when I saw a viral-ish hack circulating recently that claimed a foolproof method of achieving those crisp, bronzed edges was cooking the whites first? I knew I had to try it.

What You Need For the Crispiest Eggs

• Eggs: You probably don’t need our egg taste test to tell you this, but fresh is best. As eggs age, they become thinner in texture. If you fry an egg and notice the egg whites are spreading more than usual, the egg is probably old. You don’t have to travel to the nearest farm for your eggs, but if that carton has been sitting in the back of your fridge for a while, it’s probably time to get some new ones. 
• Oil: A neutral oil that can withstand high heat cooking (Kenji recommends olive oil). Contrary to popular belief, using olive oil during high heat cooking isn’t as bad as everyone thinks it is. I use Graza’s Sizzle EVOO, which gives the eggs a slightly peppery, grassy flavor. 
• A frying pan: Cast iron or carbon steel are the best options here. Both are excellent at retaining heat, and when properly seasoned, they have a protective, nonstick coating, making them an ideal choice for eggs, pancakes, and the like. If I’m only cooking one egg, I like using my 6-inch cast iron skillet because it’s perfectly egg-sized. The small diameter allows the eggs to reach the edges of the pan, ensuring crackly edges and a circular shape. In a pinch, nonstick will work, but the edges won’t crisp up as quickly.
• Basting spoon: You could use any large spoon you have on hand, but I like going for something more sizable: a stainless steel plating spoon I’ve had since culinary school. It’s bigger than a soup spoon but smaller than a serving spoon, making it the ideal size—and your best friend—for basting. 
• A spatula or slotted spoon: We’re using a lot of oil here, and it’s best to use a heat-proof spatula or slotted spoon to help any excess drip off when you remove the eggs.

…How You Achieve the Crispiest Eggs

I’m so glad you asked!

1. Crack an egg and separate the whites from the yolk into ramekins and set it aside. There’s really no mess-free way to go about it, but here are two methods I’d recommend: You could crack the egg into a bowl and use clean, dry hands to gently pick up and transfer the yolk to another bowl. Alternatively, you could crack an egg, let the whites drip into a bowl underneath while transferring the yolk back and forth until all the whites have fallen below. Heat your pan over medium-high heat. Coat the bottom of the pan with about 2 to 3 tablespoons of oil and heat until shimmering and almost smoking. 
2. Add your egg whites. Tilt the pan towards you once the eggs start to set, letting the oil pool, and use your spoon to baste until the edges of the egg whites begin to bubble and crisp. Continue until you reach your desired crispness. 
3. Place the egg yolk in the middle of your whites and baste around the yolk for a few more seconds to ensure you’re cooking any whites that may be attached. 
4. Using a spatula or slotted spoon, gently lift out your beautifully fried egg, letting the excess oil drain off, and season to taste—I’m all for the flaky sea salt here!

That’s all there is to it! Once you try it, you may feel bold enough to host brunch this weekend—even for self-proclaimed egg haters.