Noir Epices and Stocking Up on Frederic Malle Perfumes

Noir Epices was included in the initial nine scents that the Frederic Malle brand came out with way back when, because the formula was sold as a bundle with Edmond Roudnitska’s Parfum de Therese. Edmond had made that scent for his wife and Malle wanted the perfume in his collection of perfumes since Roudnitska was a legendary perfumer and cultural critic. With the formula for Parfum de Therese, came Noir Epices, composed by his son. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

Although they’re all loved by perfume lovers, let’s face it, Noir Epices and Parfum de Therese were not best-sellers at the Malle counter in recent years, and I hardly hear anyone talk about this one. I can understand why. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

Spices are hard on the palate and surprise and shock people instead of gently wooing them with sweetness. Noir Epices opens with a spice box – cinnamon, cloves, almost mentholated and refreshing. Geranium adds to the herbal nature to this box of fun, and a tangerine note that’s sweet and mouth-watering, the tartness adding another layer of freshness to the cool spices. A woodsy base with patchouli that reminds me of Portrait of a Lady but this one isn’t as bracing and sharp thanks to the mellowing effects of vanilla. It’s a cross between a Chypre and an amber, oranges taking the place of more typical citruses, the surprising warm spices in the middle, and a more mellow finish. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

When I saw that Malle was leaving his brand last summer, I had to get this bottle, because I knew I’d have regrets if it disappeared and I never got to smell it again. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀