Your Ultimate Guide To Visiting The Iceland Highlands

With the ring road getting busier every year, the Iceland Highlands are the perfect choice for off-the-beaten-path travel in dramatic natural scenery. Our guide covers the best things to see in the highlands plus important tips for how to get there.

We’ve been to Iceland many times, and after each visit, we’re left with the same conclusion: the highlands are the country at its most remote and most beautiful.

There’s simply nowhere on earth quite like it. Majestic volcanic mountains, bubbling mud pots, rivers winding through colourful mountains, and colossal glaciers define the barren landscape.

In the emptiness of the highlands, the crowds of Reykjavík and the Ring Road itinerary are a distant memory. It’s out here that the real wilderness adventure begins.

To drive yourself into the highlands you’ll need a 4×4 vehicle, an affinity for bumpy roads and a healthy thirst for adventure.

Our guide covers everything you need to know about visiting the highlands including the best places to see and how to get there.

WHAT ARE THE ICELAND HIGHLANDS?

The Iceland Highlands are vast zones of uninhabited volcanic desert, formed above the mid-Atlantic rift (a gap between two tectonic plates). Destroyed by volcanic activity and then re-formed through the forces of nature, the highlands are a continually changing, harsh environment.

The landscape of the highlands includes dramatic colourful mountains, vast canyons, hidden thermal springs and other geological wonders.

WHERE ARE THE HIGHLANDS?

The highlands cover an area of 40,000 square kilometres (25,000 square miles) in the centre of Iceland.

The popular Ring Road (Route 1) circles the edge of Iceland, not because there’s nothing to see in the middle, but because the highlands are inaccessible for most of the year.

HOW TO GET TO THE HIGHLANDS?

To get to the highlands you need to drive on the F-roads (or mountain roads). These are gravel tracks that are not regularly maintained and are only open during the summer months.

The F-Roads often involve driving across rivers and as such, only 4×4 vehicles are permitted to drive on them.

Driving to the highlands is a fantastic experience in Iceland and a great way to see the best of the country without the crowds. However, there are some important implications to your car rental insurance, so read our guide about driving on the F-Roads first.

IS VISITING THE ICELAND HIGHLANDS WORTH IT?

Absolutely! There are three great reasons to visit the highlands.

Firstly, it has some of the best natural scenery in Iceland. Expect to see beautiful rainbow-coloured mountains, canyons cut deep into barren landscapes, waterfalls cascading over multi-layered gorges, as well as glaciers, sandy deserts, and lakes.

Secondly, most tourists stick to the Ring Road. Head into the highlands and you’ll quickly get away from the crowd, often enjoying amazing natural scenery all by yourself.

Finally, getting there is all part of the adventure. Going to the highlands often involves driving through rivers and over very harsh terrain. It’s important to be prepared, but it’s a thoroughly rewarding experience.

MAP – ICELAND HIGHLANDS

Travelling to the highlands generally involves heading in from the Ring Road, and then back out again on the same day. So to visit these places, you ideally want to be based close to the Ring Road near the F-Road junction for the destination you are visiting.

1. KERLINGARFJÖLL

Kerlingarfjöll is a small but stunning mountain range in the centre of Iceland. Snow-capped summits are wedged between two mighty glaciers with an otherworldly geothermal area in between.

The landscape is truly surreal. Gurgling rivers, red and brown mountains, bubbling mud pots and steaming vents shroud the valley in mystery.

Kerlingarfjöll is accessed on the 35 and F347 roads from either north or south. We found these to be two of the easiest mountain roads to navigate. Although rocky in a couple of places, there are no rivers to cross, making Kerlingarfjöll one of the most accessible places in the highlands.

More Information – More information including hikes and driving instructions is available on our guide to visiting Kerlingarfjöll.

HOW TO GET TO KERLINGARFJÖLL

• Route – 35 Kjölur Road and the F347.
• Difficulty – Easy F-roads with no river crossings.
• Vehicle – Any sized 4×4 will suffice.
• Time – 1.5 hours from Gulfoss; 2.5 hours via Route 1 in the north.

2. HVERAVELLIR

The geothermal area of Hveravellir (hot springs fields) is 1 hour north of Kerlingarfjöll. Here we found one of the most remote natural springs in Iceland.

A dam has been built in a river to create a small pool that fluctuates between 20°C and 40°C (68-140°F). Find the right spot, and enjoy a soak while staring out at the magnificent remote vistas of the highlands.

Important Info – There are no changing facilities at Hveravellir, just a wooden bench and some hooks to store your gear. However, there are toilets a couple of hundred meters away.

HOW TO GET TO HVERAVELLIR

• Route – 1 hour north of Kerlingarfjöll on the 35 Kjölur Road.
• Difficulty – Easy f-roads with no river crossings.
• Vehicle – Any sized 4×4.
• Time – 2.5 hours from Gulfoss; 1.5 hours from Route 1 in the north.

3. ASKJA

Askja is a series of interlinking calderas and craters deep in the highlands. The largest is over 30 square miles wide, formed when a massive magma chamber collapsed during a volcanic eruption.

Tucked into one edge of this massive caldera is the smaller Viti Crater, formed by a more recent explosion. The burnt orange and yellow crater is filled with a milky white geothermal pool.

We loved Askja and we’ve been 3 times. But, it’s one of the more difficult destinations in the highlands to get to. If you’re up for the challenge, read our guide to Askja which has driving routes, facilities and maps.

HOW TO GET TO ASKJA

• Route – F905 and F910 from Route 1.
• Difficulty – Medium to challenging: there are 2 significant river crossings.
• Vehicle – A minimum of a mid-sized 4×4 is required.
• Time – 3.5 hours from the Route 1 / F905 junction.

4. LANDMANNALAUGAR

Landmannalaugar is a mountain region in the Fjallabak National Reserve on the southwest edge of the highlands. It is the most varied of the highland landscapes with colourful rhyolite mountains, glacial rivers, lava fields and a geothermal pool.

We loved the hiking in Landmannalaugar with stunning trails offering everything from easy to strenuous hikes.

In addition to some truly remarkable scenery, Landmannalaugar is also one of the easier destinations to get to. It’s the perfect place for first-timers to get some experience on the F-Roads.

More information – Our guide to visiting Landmannalaugar has driving routes, hikes and maps. We also cover the different options for getting to Landmannalaugar here.

HOW TO GET TO LANDMANNALAUGAR

• Route – F26 and F208 from the north is the easiest way to get to Landmannalaugar.
• Difficulty – Easy (no river crossings).
• Vehicle – Any 4×4 will suffice.
• Time – 1.5 hours from the Route 26 / Route 32 junction.

5. SIGÖLDUGLJÚFUR CANYON

A babbling brook, crossing from Krókslón Lake to Hrauneyjalón Lake has cut a small canyon through hard black rock producing the picture-perfect Sigöldugljúfur Canyon.

Multiple waterfalls tumble over the moss-covered, sheer-sided gorge with a turquoise river running along its base. It’s a stunning scene straight out of a fairy tale.

Sigöldugljúfur Canyon is a 45-minute drive north of Landmannalaugar on the F-208. If you’d like some tips on incorporating it into your Iceland trip, read our 7-day Iceland itinerary.

HOW TO GET TO SIGÖLDUGLJÚFUR

• Route – F26 and F208 from the north is the easiest.
• Difficulty – Easy (no river crossings).
• Vehicle – Any 4×4 will do.
• Time – 40 minutes from the Route 26 / Route 32 junction.

6. HAIFOSS

Haifoss was our favourite waterfalls in Iceland. The River Fossá drops 120 metres as a slender cascade down a sheer layered rockface. A second waterfall, Granni, drops just beside it creating a magnificent dual waterfall in a massive, curved canyon.

It’s not technically within the highlands but getting to Haifoss involves driving on a road that requires a 4×4 vehicle and, because it’s such a spectacular sight, we think it’s well worth visiting.

HOW TO GET TO HAIFOSS

• Route – Route 332 off Route 32.
• Difficulty – Easy (no river crossings).
• Vehicle – Any 4×4.
• Time – 20 minutes from the Route 32 / Route 332 junction.

7. LJÓTIPOLLUR

Ljótipollur means ‘ugly pond’ and it’s the thoroughly undeserving name for a blue lake in a 4-kilometre crater. The barren landscape surrounding the lake provides uninterrupted views of rivers twisting towards the sea with the imposing Landmannalaugar mountains behind.

There’s a new car park at Ljótipollur which is a 5-minute walk up to the crater rim. But, if you’re feeling more active, you can see it on the wonderful hike to Ljótipollur from the Landmannalaugar.

Hot Tip – Haifoss, Sigöldugljúfur, Ljótipollur, and Landmannalaugar can all be visited on one long but glorious day out. All the details are on our guide to Landmannalaugar.

HOW TO GET TO LJÓTIPOLLUR

• Route – F26 & F208.
• Difficulty – Easy (no river crossings).
• Vehicle – Any 4×4.
• Time – 1 hour, 15 minutes from Route 26 / Route 32 junction.

8. THÓRSMÖRK

Thórsmörk is a remote area where three valleys converge under three imposing glaciers forming a dramatic wilderness of spectacular scenery.

Huge moss-covered mountains dwarfed by even bigger glaciers are divided by a swathe of black gravel carved out by rivers charging along the valleys.

We didn’t drive ourselves to Thórsmörk because the rivers you need to cross are just too much of a challenge for our level of expertise in a 4×4. However, there is a comprehensive public transport which makes it very easy to get to Thórsmörk

All the details are in our guide to Thórsmörk which includes how to get there and our top hikes.

HOW TO GET TO THÓRSMÖRK

• Route – F249 to Básar Huts is the only route that does not require a specially modified 4×4.
• Difficulty – Very challenging with 2 large river crossings.
• Vehicle – Large 4×4 only (with experienced driver).
• Time – 1 hour, 10 minutes from Seljalandsfoss.

9. MAELIFELL

Maelifell was one of our favourite places in Iceland, let alone the highlands. It’s a dramatic cone-shaped mountain surrounded by a massive expanse of black sand with the huge Mýrdalsjökull glacier in the background.

There are 3 different routes to Maelifell. The easiest is via the F232 from the south; a stunning drive over the Maelifellsandur black sands. It involves a river crossing that requires at least a mid-sized 4×4, but we found it relatively easy to navigate.

Our guide to driving to Maelifel has instructions, maps and some excellent hikes.

HOW TO GET TO MAELIFELL

• Route – F232 from Route 209 near Hrifunes.
• Difficulty – Medium. There is 1 medium-sized river crossing, and the journey involves driving over sand.
• Vehicle – mid-sized 4×4.
• Time – 1 hour, 40 minutes one way.

10. RAUÐIBOTN

Rauðibotn is a red and green crater located between the Mýrdalsjökull and Vatnajökull glaciers. It’s a beautiful and remote location in the highlands with hiking trails that follow the rim of the crater to waterfalls and emerald-green lakes.

The highlight of Rauðibotn, however, is the fantastic view it provides of Maelifell.

We took the F210 from Grafarkirkja to Rauðibotn. It’s a pretty bumpy mountain road with a few small to medium river crossings, but it’s achievable for anyone in any sized 4×4.

HOW TO GET TO RAUÐIBOTN

• Route – F210 from the east (starting on the F208 near the church in Grafarkirkja).
• Difficulty – Medium. Smallish river crossings and a bumpy road.
• Vehicle – Any size 4×4.
• Time – 1 hour, 15 minutes one way.

11. HOLUHRAUN

Holuhraun is a lava field in a remote part of the highlands just north of the Vatnajökull ice cap. It was last active in August 2014 when a massive eruption expanded the existing lava field to an area of 85 square kilometres.

Holuhraun is 9 miles (15 kilometres) from Askja and can be reached by continuing on the F910. The road heads through fairly deep sand and to be honest, it wasn’t our favourite road in the highlands. You need at least a mid-sized 4×4 and some experience driving on sand.

It takes around 45 minutes to drive to Holuhraun from Drekil Campsite in Askja.

HOW TO GET TO HOLUHRAUN

• Route – F910 from Drekil Campsite in Askja.
• Difficulty – Medium to Challenging.
• Vehicle – Mid-sized 4×4.
• Time – 45 minutes (on top of the 3 hours to Askja).

12. ALDEYJARFOSS

Aldeyjarfoss is a dramatic waterfall right on the northern edge of the F26 Sprengisandsleið Road, the longest mountain road in the Iceland highlands.

The falls are fed by the Skjálfandafljót river which drops 20 metres as a powerful cascade to an icy-coloured pool at the base of the falls. Symmetrical basalt columns form sheer-sided walls curving around the base of the waterfall.  

Aldeyjarfoss is very easy to get to from Route 1 and only involves a few minutes on the F-26 road.

Don’t Miss – Hrafnabjargafoss Waterfall is 5 minutes further south on the F26. This impressive waterfall was one of our favourites in Iceland. If you make the quick detour, you’ll probably have it all to yourself.

HOW TO GET TO ALDEYJARFOSS

• Route – 844 from Goðafoss, then F26.
• Difficulty – Easy; no river crossings and it’s only 5 minutes on the F-road.
• Vehicle – Any 4×4.
• Time – 45 minutes.

13. HAFRAHVAMMAGLJÚFUR

Hafrahvammagljúfur is an 8-kilometre canyon in a remote part of the eastern highlands that spectacularly drops 200 metres from the barren landscape that surrounds it.   

The best viewing point is from a recently constructed viewing platform which is a short walk from the Hafrahvammagljúfur car park.

Access is via the F910 – the challenging road to Askja. But this eastern end is much easier and we thought it was a lot of fun. This road is the roof of Iceland with exceptional views across to Vatnajökull glacier.

You can access the F910 from either from the north (via F907) or from the south (via the 910). Neither involve any river crossings, but the road is very bumpy. 

HOW TO GET TO HAFRAHVAMMAGLJÚFUR

• Route – 910 & F910 from Brekka; or F907 & F910 from Route 1 north.
• Difficulty – Easy to Medium. There are no river crossings but the road is very bumpy.
• Vehicle – Any 4×4 will do.
• Time – 1 hour, 15 minutes either route.

14. LAUGAVALLALAUG (LAUGAVELLIR)

Laugavallalaug (sometimes referred to as Laugavellir)‏ is a hot spring and a beautiful oasis in the middle of nowhere. A naturally heated waterfall drops into a small pool that has been dammed by stones providing an idyllic bathing spot amongst the vast open plains of the Iceland highlands.

We think Laugavallalaug is the best thermal spring in Iceland and we tried a few! The remote location (we were there alone) and the completely natural environment made it an unforgettable experience for us.

Laugavallalaug is down a track off the west side of the F910. It is just opposite Hafrahvammagljúfur Canyon and the two together make a great day out, especially if you include Stuðlagil Canyon and/or Hengifoss waterfall.

River Crossing – There is a medium-sized river crossing just before the hot springs, but there’s a car park and a footbridge so you don’t have to drive across it if it looks too much. The pool is 5 minutes’ walk from the footbridge.

HOW TO GET TO LAUGAVALLALAUG

• Route – 910 & F910 from Brekka; or F907 & F910 from Route 1 north.
• Difficulty – Easy to Medium. There’s a mid-sized river crossing which you can avoid by parking before it.
• Vehicle – Any 4×4.
• Time – 1 hour, 15 minutes either route.

15. LANGJÖKULL

Langjökull is the second largest ice cap in Iceland, after Vatnajökull. It stretches about 50 kilometres long and 20 kilometres wide. In some places, the ice is up to 580 metres thick.

The glacier is in a very active geothermal area with two volcanic systems stretching out in opposite directions underneath. One of them is Hveravellir mentioned above. The glacier also feeds Gullfoss and the hot springs at Geysir.

A man-made tunnel has been carved into the ice where you can take a tour to learn more about the unique geology of Langjökull.

It’s an easy drive along the 551 and 550 Kaldidalur roads to get to Langjökull. At the end of the 551, specially designed buses make their way onto the ice. Regular 4×4 vehicles are not permitted to drive onto the glacier.

HOW TO GET TO LANGJÖKULL

• Route – 550 Kaldidalur & 551.
• Difficulty – Easy; no river crossings.
• Vehicle – Any 4×4.
• Time – 45 minutes from Húsafell in the north; 1 hour 15 minutes from Thingvellir in the south.

MORE GUIDE TO PLAN YOUR ICELAND TRIP

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