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The bob is easily one of the most versatile and stylish haircuts you can get. But with so many different versions, choosing one to try isn’t easy. Should you go long or short with bangs or a side part, curly or straight? The options are daunting. Luckily, two trendy looks, the French bob and the Italian bob, can help narrow down your selection. Chic and sophisticated, these two styles exude luxury and confidence in different ways. The French bob is a classic haircut worn by many beauty icons. But the Italian bob is quickly becoming a favorite with today’s Hollywood set. Below, we chatted with two hairstylists to learn what makes these stylish bobs unique and how to determine which will suit you best.
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The difference between the Italian and French bob
Like the fashion from each country, each bob has a signature feel. The French bob leans into the effortless and carefree look, while the Italian bob commands more attention. The overall appearance of each comes down to technical differences. “French bobs are cut short, usually chin-length, and have clean, blunt lines,” says celebrity hairstylist Riawna Capri. It’s easygoing as far as bobs go, and according to Wavytalk hairstylist Emma McJury, it can take on a cool, rebellious look with piecey fringe and textured waves.
Italian bobs are all about big, bold glamour. “This style is fuller and a bit longer, grazing the neck or shoulders, and has much more volume than a French bob,” says McJury. The Italian bob is also full of movement thanks to the way it is cut. Instead of blunt ends, Capri says it incorporates soft layers that help add to its voluminous shape.
Should I try the Italian or French bob?
While both cuts can work for any hair type, the pros say that there are a few things to consider for each. “French bobs tend to be more low-maintenance and work well for those with straighter hair or soft natural waves,” says Capri. Having just a hint of texture and less volume also makes it ideal for rounder face shapes. “Heart and oval faces pair well with this kind of bob because the chin-length cut highlights the shape without shortening it,” adds McJury. These shapes also work well with bangs, which are common with French bobs.
Since the Italian bob features a longer length, it can be a bit more versatile. “Wavy, straight or loose, natural curls all work well with this style and will have an easy time managing the look,” says Capri. The goal is to create shape and structure with this cut. Unlike the French bob, volume is essential for nailing the look. That said, McJury notes that thicker textures are best suited for creating a natural fullness. The longer length and fuller shape also make it ideal for any face shape. For example, the volume and soft layers are great for softening structured jaw lines, while the shoulder-grazing style helps lengthen rounder face shapes.
How to style the French bob
French bobs are supposed to be effortless, but that doesn’t mean you can forgo styling all the time. To get the most out of your cut, you can opt for a full styling session and light techniques throughout the week to keep it looking fresh. To begin, McJury recommends using a light texturizing spray to bring out the natural movement of your hair before blow-drying. If you have naturally curly hair, she suggests using a diffuser to keep your curls intact. However, the final look should be more tousled than formed curls. Touching up your look throughout the week will ensure it stays smooth and frizz-free. She recommends using a mousse or styling foam over gel and a blow-dry brush such as Wavytalk’s Air Sculpt 2-in-1 Hot Air Brush ($60). “The goal is undone and never over-styled, so you want to use small amounts of product and a tool that gives the hair a subtle bend and lift in one pass,” she says.
How to style the Italian bob
Glamorous waves and polished volume are key to achieving the perfect Italian bob. This isn’t a look for loose flyaways or texture, so Capri recommends beginning with a serum to help control frizz and add shine. Once you’ve prepped the hair and are ready to blow-dry, she notes that nailing this bob is all about your technique. “Blow-drying the hair in a downward direction, away from the crown, and then using your fingers to smooth it will give it that polished look.” She recommends using a high-quality blowdryer such as L’Oréal’s AirLight Pro ($475) and a few drops of hair oil for shine. To achieve the luscious curls, McJury says using a curling wand with a large barrel is ideal. “Try adding loose bends, then setting with a flexible hairspray and shine mist to keep everything sleek without stiffness.”
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